25 January, 2009



“You may never like any thing I write – and then suddenly you might like something very much.  But you must believe that I am sincere in what I write.”

Ernest to Grace Hall Hemingway, 1927

 

The afternoon sun was high and softly blanketed by thin clouds whispy and swirling.  The thick Rio heat was broken by the breeze, making the palm trees lean, their hard crisp leaves chattering.  The boy seemed as a man, unbelievably small but with aged eyes and even muscles, his skin brown but not yet leathery.  The kite spindle he used was an old plastic water bottle, and he tied the line with an expert knot, his hands moving not as a child but as a spinster, daydreaming of something else. The kite was small, square, and homemade with thin paper and balsa wood.  He let out enough line and threw the kite in the air, turning his neck back to watch it as he ran into the wind.  He stopped and worked the kite, his hands skillfully jerking and freeing the line, the ocean wind lifting and pushing it higher.

 

True writing is actually more real than life.  Separating yourself from the event, recreating it with words, you are actually closer to real than when you were sitting on the concrete wall, watching the boy with the kite.  This is why I am more tired after writing, than being. 

 

 

I squinted in the bright light of the morning sun.  My students were lined up in a perfect line, facing the ocean, the warm-up and stretch series becoming routine.  The beach was hugged by sharply rising mountains, steep rocky peaks emerging out of dense green forests.  The site of Rocinha was in my view, its immense form cradled in the saddle of two mountain peaks, carved into the hillside as if the hand of God had scraped it himself, three hundred thousand people, squatting.  

 

We were already sweating.  Luciano was focused, concentrating on the stretch counts, repeating them louder than the others.  We were shaking off the comfort of sleep, mentally preparing for another grueling session.  I collected everyone’s flip-flops and put them in my backpack, and we begin our run.  Moving through the thick sand, we ran for forty-five minutes, stopping every ninety seconds for strengthening exercises.  The shrill of the whistle brought attention to our group, so did the strange exercises.  The curious attention received actually strengthens the group’s morale.  We love to talk about it. 

 

Luciano lives next door to the institute.  He is around forty years-old and is a professional photographer, which leaves him time during his day to help me, or just sit around and talk, a favorite Brazilian pastime.  The reader will remember that Luciano is “the Italian,” the beloved character that enjoys busting everyone’s balls, especially the institute directors and the volunteers.  Luciano is single, has no children, and is deeply religious, his lifestyle as a teetotaler stands in stark contrast to his immediate surroundings.

 

I arrive Rocinha at 7:45 for our morning workouts.  We start to assemble at 8:00 so I always take a few moments to sit on the steps and read Veja, the Brazilian equivalent of Time Magazine.  This is a peaceful time and I do enjoy watching the Rocinha residents start their day.  The institute is located in a very narrow alleyway between impromptu buildings three stories high, causing a claustrophobic feel that leaves the alleyway always dark and usually wet.  The thin view of the sky is broken by an infinite array of adhoc, spliced powerlines.  Louie is the cat that lives across the alley in the home where I spent Christmas.  He wakes up when I arrive and sits with me until everyone shows up.  He is white with large spots of mottled grey and black.  At precisely 8:00 am Luciano shows up with the key to the institute.  We spend a brief few minutes discussing what we did the prior evening, and then we get going.

 

We are almost back to the starting point of our beach run, the past forty minutes have been a blur of heat, pain, sweat, and sand.  The sands’ continuous attempt to cover our skin is failing due to the sheer volume of sweat we are producing.  Luciano’s form during the exercises is good but not perfect, this does not stop him from motivating the others.  He is in serious pain, and cannot hide this fact from his face.  This is why he keeps coming back, and this is why he is a believer, something deep inside of him needs this, and I don’t know yet what it is.  I do know that he feels as if he was born into the wrong life, that he was meant for something different.

 

I blow the final whistle for the end of the workout, we exercise discipline and do our stretch routine first, in silence, giving them time to calm their intense desire to jump into the perfectly crisp ocean water, forcing them to reflect on their recent experience.  The stretch routine, at first clumsy and awkward, is now perfected, a unified group seamlessly gliding through the series in perfect silence. 

 

Luciano leads the group into the water, not tiptoeing, but sprinting, diving headfirst.  I watch them with joy, and with pride.  I’m dying to get in the water but I follow my impulse and begin to organize our things, delaying gratification… Something new inside told me that this was stupid, so I stifled my complex and ran in the ocean…  The water was cold, but just right, our heads bobbing up down with the large waves that broke closer to the shore.  Luciano told me this was his first time in the water in years.  I looked back to the mountains, and to Rocinha, and I felt good. 

 

My last Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu session was two weeks ago.  I had my first opportunity to fight another white belt, and this was satisfying.  Each fight is 8 minutes long, so I prepare for each fight with a quick reflection, telling myself to be smart, stay calm, and only use strength for when I really need it.  With the white belt, we trade positions for four minutes, and I could tell he was getting tired.  I had been saving my energy, not going for any kill positions, but playing it for the long run.  I was in the rear guard, to the unfamiliar this might seem to be a defensive position, as you are on your back, but it is actually quite offensive.  My opponent was standing up and I had my legs wrapped around is his waist.  He was leaning over, which was a mistake as he was bleeding energy rapidly.  The key to setting up for an arm-bar is not to give it away, as every participant is familiar with these moves, success is only achieved during a brief moment where your opponent lacks attention.  I had one of his arms locked to my chest, and with my opposite leg I released my wrap and shot my leg straight up and past his head, rolling and twisting in the opposite direction.  This maneuver caused us to tumble once over on the ground and I ended up on top, with my opponent’s arm between my legs, sitting on his shoulder.  All that was left was to simply roll back until his elbow, with any more pressure, would have broken, causing intense pain and him to tap-out.  I crawled back to the center, ready to start again, but he was done.  Later that day I noticed pain in my lower ribs.  A few days later, while bench-pressing at the gym, I actually felt and heard the crack of the lower rib finally giving way. 

 

I now have space for my physical training equipment in Rocinha.  It’s only a closet, but it is inside a community meeting room, large enough for me to run a class of 10-15 students.  I can now complete my bench press and squat rack, and then begin construction on other items.  It will be important to seize this small but powerful leverage point.

 

The sculptor knows that a chip doesn’t have to fall every time the chisel is struck, because he understands that every time he strikes the chisel, he weakens the stone.  If he’s patient long enough, the piece he wants to chip will depart from the main rock – James Maxwell

 

My vision for the physical training class:  Hosting 10-15 students inside the community center, running them through high-intensity 30 minute workouts that use equipment I construct from primitive materials that can be found anywhere, especially junk yards.  Some days I make progress towards this goal, some days I don’t.  I am finding that holding onto to this vision takes immense patience, perseverance, and faith.  Simple things become immensely difficult.  I continually push to get momentum and then push to keep it going, while all the intricate elements of favela life and Brazilian sense of time seem to push back.  

 

We carried the heavy iron bar back to the institute, sweating profusely and dejected after a failed attempt to transfer it to the community center, and I thought about visions and processes.  As a western thinker, I have been trained to get what I want now, and that the process is just a means to a greater end.  This is not true, every action and every emotion involved in creating something is the true value: the sense of misery when I carried the medicine balls back from the beach, the dangerous motorcycle ride to the back side of the mountain only to find that the guy we needed only works on Thursdays, and the countless fruitless travels around Rocinha, searching, measuring, and negotiating.  Still today I have little to show for my efforts, but I won’t stop.  Still carrying the iron bar, we made our final turn back to the institute, relieved that this ill-fated trip was almost over, and I smiled, resolving to accept the meaningful struggle as value. 

10 January, 2009


Salgueiro Samba School is a mass of concrete, rising up from the street neighborhood, constructed to be useful with the purposeful pride of Socialism.  Tonight’s Carnaval rehearsal is a party, the massive hall full, a claustrophobic’s nightmare with a thousand intimate sweaty bodies.   The hall was painted with Salgueiro’s colors red and white, checkered in mesmerizing fashion.  The band’s balcony hung precipitously on one side of the hall and we stood for four hours, listening. 

 

A white belt’s rise is scarred with painful mistakes. My last training session I found myself in a series of four crushing arm-bars by superior fighters.  I am constantly impressed with new ways the body experiences pain.  My technique is improving, and this past week I have made it more difficult for my opposition.  I have yet to accept rest over the chance to fight again, forcing me to improve technique. 

 

I walked out of my apartment building on New Year’s Eve and was struck by the flood of a thousand people walking in the same direction.  It was one hour until midnight and the streets were flooded with people wearing white.  I joined them in parade and met Luciano and the others at the Copacabana beach.  The fireworks started exactly at midnight, and two million people cheered, cried, and hoped for the future. 

 

 

An odyssey of physical and mental anguish broken by moments of clarity of purpose and blissful understanding

(my description of Boulder Outdoor Survival School)

 

We gathered in a circle in Utah’s high mountain desert.  Across the grassy valley stood a black sheep, looking at us, seemingly knowing what was to come.  The lead instructor had us draw straws to determine who would kill the animal.  My straw was the shortest.  Laurel, our lead instructor, asked if my knife was sharp.  I said yes.  We walked across the valley and gathered around the sheep.  Next to the sheep a hole was dug and a coffee can was placed inside.  We laid the sheep down so its neck was above the can.  With my left hand I found the carotid artery.  I unsheathed my knife and placed the tip at the artery.  I quickly placed my left hand on the butt of the knife and forcefully plunged the knife straight down, then towards me to complete the severing of the artery.  The group held the sheep down.  I sat on my knees and watched as the blood drained into the bucket, and the sheep’s life faded.  The next two days we processed the animal in the tradition of the Native Americans.  The act of killing the sheep was shockingly emotional for me, and I sought to understand why it was not during the war, with real human lives. 

 

 

Be wary of security as a goal.  It may often look like life’s best prize,  usually it is not.

William Zinnser

 

The discipline is not to jump to fast.  If you jump to a form to quickly it won’t have the understood meaning you want for it

(Maya Lin – Chinese American designer of Vietnam Veterans Memorial)

 

It has been seven weeks in Rio.  The existential anxiety I previously mentioned has calmed.  However, I do still experience the desire to be busy for busy’s sake.  I continually attempt to mentally crush the outdated yet still practiced deferred life plan.

 

Back at Salgueiro the drums and beer have my mind in a daze, and I think about Rio.  The daily flow of life is like any other city, we slowly catch our vans and buses to somewhere else, I arrive Rocinha in the morning and wonder why the streets are always wet.  We talk of places far away, war in Iraq and the Gaza Strip, we shake our heads and ask why.  Intensely complicated politics, intricate diplomacy, and long term strategy are not discussed, only the number killed, and only vague, incomplete attempts to understand are made.  But here a thin cloud of fear shrouds the dream of Rio, the stark contrast of rich and poor overlaps, socioeconomic conditions giving birth to violence, the constant reminder that we too are at war.  But we gather at street parties, beaches, and churches to celebrate life, perhaps more intensely here, the margin between life and death is thinner.  

2 January, 2009

The white van dropped me off on the other side of Rocinha.  I would have to find the correct route into the institute.  It was seven am on Christmas Eve, it should have been calm.  There was a young woman on the back of a mototaxi, telling the driver to go while her right arm was held firmly by a young trafficker, balancing a glass of beer in his right hand and an AR-15 rifle slung on his right shoulder, his mouth rapidly cursing the young woman.  I turned left past the market and through an alleyway.  A bar inside the alleyway was overflowing with people, speaking much too loudly over the music and clearly not aware it was seven in the morning.  Not daring to look inside as I walked by, a drunken woman reached out from inside the bar and grabbed my right arm, she yelled “Gringo,” proudly announcing her catch.  I shrugged her grip and kept walking, never once actually looking inside the bar. 

 

Luciano had called the day before, asking for a physical training class first thing on Christmas Eve.  The class is beginning to gain some traction with my four dedicated students.  At eight o’clock we ran down to the beach, I with two medicine balls in my backpack, and carrying a kettlebell in one hand, and Luciano with the other kettlebell.  The Rocinha residents do not know what to make of us.  We arrive at the beach and begin our usual procedures.  After stretching I have them rotate through stations of pull-ups, kettlebell swings, overhead carries, and stairs.  As one of the students requires frequent breaks, I become aware of the very real possibility of a heart attack, and mentally plan my course of action if it occurs.  These students have never worked out like this in their life. 

 

I return to Rocinha for Christmas Eve.  I was very pleased to spend Christmas with my students who have become friends.  Fireworks are used to celebrate many occasions in Brazil, Christmas Eve not excluded.  This night the residents in Rocinha were partying, and random fireworks were continuous.  The trafficking stand was in full swing, which added to my apprehension, as it was difficult to tell the difference between gunshots and fireworks.  As I walked by the stand, a shirtless man threw a flaming object across the thoroughfare, landing on the concrete across the aqueduct, the traffickers watching, waiting for it to explode.  A young woman, seasoned, put her fingers in her ears for protection.  I imitated her and I was inside my head yelling “Don’t React, Don’t Jump,” again, and again, til I was clear.  A nervous reaction in this situation would bring unfortunate attention. 

 

Christmas Eve in Rocinha was very nice.  The home I was invited to was beautiful, tightly structured and three stories high, neatly abutted by neighbors sharing walls and a front alleyway three feet wide.  It was a true delight, we watched Polar Express in Portuguese and at midnight we hugged, kissed, and then ate a big meal.  The food was amazing, and I devoured two platefuls.  One day I’ll be a good enough writer to describe the food.  I snuck into the kitchen and began doing some dishes, a therapy I never miss.  I think grandma was actually mad when she caught me because she snapped at me with her towel.  I cowered back to the living room and she brought me a soda. 

 

As the other fighters entered the padded room, I knew I had made a mistake.  They were big, wearing kimonos thin from decades of use, and their belts were brown and black.  I sat in the corner, my kimono was white, too bright, too clean, and hard with its newness.  Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu focuses on ground fighting, achieving a win through pain compliance techniques like chokeholds and joint locks.  It is derived from Japanese Judo and made famous by the Gracies and the now popular ultimate fighting championships.  It was my second class and I solemnly arrived, entering as if to my own funeral. The previous class had been ego crushing.  After each fight I limped on all fours back to the wall, my heart beating out of my chest and on the brink of throwing up. Already I’ve found myself into two chokeholds where my opponent could have killed me.  At these precise moments the brain introduces you to a perfect sample of your own death, an indescribable feeling where the body is still fighting, but the slow drain of blood from the brain is putting the body and its panic, to sleep. I resolved to return, to relax while fighting, and survive. 

 

Ricardo de la Riva is our Professor, a legend famous worldwide.  If you happened upon him on the street he would strike you as an academic, standing five foot eight inches with wire-rimmed glasses, graying hair, and a quick smile.  One mention of his name anywhere in the martial arts world brings animated discussion. We go back to the wall after each fight, to recover.  A body I thought was in good physical condition is nowhere near the desired state for fighting.  The Professor scans the room, asking each fighter if they are ready for another. Most fighters take at least one rest between sessions, I will not.  I need to learn to fight in the most fatigued condition, forcing me to relax my breath, and calm my mind while the body is in full tilt fight mode.

 

The book “The Hustler,” by Walter Tevis, accurately and acutely portrays mans fear of his own success.  I had him, he was only a purple belt but he should have been beating me.  I was clearly stronger than him but I was new, and had very limited knowledge of technique.  Several times during the fight my killer instinct recessed by only the tiniest of fractions, but just enough to let him escape.  It actually happened, I was afraid of beating him on my second class, and the smallest of forgivings are quickly punished on the mat.  A brand new white belt beating a seasoned purple belt would have raised the academy’s expectations of me, and I subconsciously resisted, preferring life at the bottom, with less pressure.  This was unacceptable.  As in Tevis’ novel, I was Fast Eddie Felsen, a young pool hustler who had Minnesota Fats in his sights during a 36 hour pool match, but drank too much as his excuse not to confront his true character, the difference between winners and losers.