29 March, 2009


The sheet was bright white but streaked with blood that was very bright and very red.  I was about to turn left into another alley and I practically ran into them.  Six huge policemen were carrying the body, and the foot stuck out of the back end of the sheet.  Everyone in the alley stopped what they were doing, and some began to cry.  I stayed still and watched.  At the end of the alley they stopped to take a break, and put the body down on the ground.  They covered the body with the sheet, but this did not stop one young woman from lifting the sheet to see if she knew who it was. (The photo above was taken in my neighborhood, the police are standing with the body, in front of the shop where I get juice)

 

A few days ago the Rocinha traffickers went to Copacabana to steal a cache of weapons that was being stored there.  A firefight erupted in the streets between Rocinha traffickers and the police.  Normally the gunfire exchanges are limited to inside the favelas, and everyone knew that the police would come to Rocinha, to punish publicly.  Two awkward days of waiting ended at 6am with multiple helicopters flying over my apartment.  The police invaded, and lifted out a large cache of drugs and weapons.  There was an exchange of gunfire and the police stayed for the day to search for weapons and drugs.  My area, Valão, is known for hosting weapons and drugs.  I had a class to teach this same morning, and I made sure to take my identification with me.  The streets were full of police, but things were tranquil.  The traffickers, in standard guerilla warfare fashion, disappeared.  We watched the police walk through alleys followed closely by pretty reporters wearing Kevlar jackets, and images of the neighborhood were all over the news.   I returned to my apartment later in the day, and my alley was strangely empty and silent.  As I walked by a door made of thin iron bars, a three-year old girl said in Portuguese, “nobody is there.”  She was referring to the institute, where she frequently plays.  I asked why and she said because of the police.  I walked to the institute and saw several heavily armed traffickers at the end of the alley, it seemed the time for an attack was imminent, but it never happened.  The next day things were back to normal. 

 

Dear reader, this will be my last post on this site.  I feel I must put this away for some time.  After being with my neighbors in the alley as the body was being dragged out, things have changed.    Even before that I was feeling a heavy load.  My writings have not added any value to our community.   Naivety and false bravado have melted into real friendships and real issues.  All I saw in my first three months here was violence, and I am seeing things differently now.  There is a deeper story here, full of great people doing a million great things every day, and I am guilty of only reporting the story that sells.  It’s just too easy to write about the negatives, and I am no better than the field reporter in Iraq who exploits violence to get paid.  I will close this blog by midweek.  

17 March, 2009

A large hand grabbed my shoulder and turned me around.  I was trying to get into the van back to Ipanema.  I was struck by the size of the military policeman that was quickly in my face.  The questions came fast: what the hell are you doing in Rocinha, do you have drugs in your bag?  I smiled, showing calm on the outside but was nervous on the inside.  He grabbed my bag and my arm, and our walk was forced as we went to his car.  The other PM(Polícia Militar) was there, he was shorter, and little fat.   The tall one began to search my bag and other searched me, thoroughly. 

 

Earlier in the day I was at the institute, Luciano gave me cash to purchase a professional camera from Amazon.  This left me with 2,000 Reais to leave Rocinha, a ridiculous amount of money that no Brazilian would ever walk around with normally, unless that Brazilian was a trafficker.  After my meeting with Luciano, I went to the community center to get my class advertisement.  The bottom of my class advertisement had my bio, describing in a few sentences my Marine Corps background.  Rogerio, who had advised me initially that my real bio would be a good thing, had second thoughts.  After some discussion he relayed to me that he was unsure if the traffickers would be able to properly differentiate a military officer from the US, and a PM in Rio.  PMs in Rio are the enemy; any chance of suspicion that I may have a connection with the PM, would quickly result in an unsavory death in the microwave.  Microwaving is currently the en vogue manner of executing favela justice.  The guilty party is placed in a stack of tires, which are then set ablaze.  The guilty party melts inside the tires, as if in a microwave.  I must admit that I do think about this manner of death when I pass the trafficking points, asking the higher power every time, “please not today.”   I laugh at the absurdity of my thought, as if tomorrow would be a much better time to be microwaved.  Back to the community center, I retrieved my document and was thankful it had not been posted, then proceeded to leave Rocinha for the day. 

 

The larger PM reached in my bag and pulled out a perfect folded packet of 2,000 Reais, gangster style, a perfect rubberband holding the crisp fold.  I smiled and began to explain how I purchased a camera for a friend.  Things were not looking good as he continued to search my bag.  He found my folder of paperwork and began to read my class advertisement.  I had refrained from telling the PMs that I was a Marine, only that I was an American volunteer. 

 

A cafezinho is the standard practice of PMs in Brazil.  The supposed offender is taken to another location by the PMs, then asked for a bribe, the cafezinho.  Fifty or one hundred Reais would normally cover it, but if you were framed for a more serious crime, much more would be needed.  During my transaction with the PMs I was anticipating the request for the cafezinho, and was withholding my true background until I felt that the cafezinho may be coming.  If the cafezinho came before I told them the truth, then they would be embarrassed, and as a cat backed into a corner, they would have no escape.  If the situation was progressing toward a cafezinho, I knew I must tell them prior to the hint of it, so they would be able to get out, and the situation would be dissolved before it was too late. 

 

My class advertisement was in Portuguese and the larger PM read it thoroughly.  He finished the bio portion, executed a perfect turn towards me, saluted, and yelled “Capitão!”  Both PMs began to smile and laugh and the tension that was thick, immediately dissipated to hand shakes and smiles. 

 

I walked away from the PMs relieved, but my relief was replaced with morbid thoughts.  Any traffickers in the area, upon seeing how my transaction ended, would quietly take a note of my pleasant and friendly manner with the PMs. An unfortunate twist of fate, and I do not acknowledge PMs ever, any suspicions are quickly brought to justice.

 

You have comfort.  You don’t have luxury, and don’t tell me that money plays a part.  The luxury I advocate has nothing to do with money.  It cannot be bought.  It is the reward of those who have no fear of discomfort. – Jean Cocteau

 

I moved into Rocinha last week.  I am finding that it is an exercise in life management.  I have a small room in an apartment with a bed, a nightstand, and a chest of drawers.  The ceiling fan works hard to help me sleep at night.  My window opens to the staircase that leads up to the third floor.    I have no pillow or blanket, they are not needed.  I lay down and am thankful for the fan, and the sleep comes.

 

I used to need perfect white noise to sleep; I don’t anymore.  Favela life is constant noise, you become accustomed to yelling, fireworks confused as gunfire, gunfire confused as fireworks, and the vibrant hum of three hundred thousand people packed too closely. 

 

I did not hear the gunfire my first night in Rocinha.  My fan makes a whirling noise and my room faces inside.  Four traffickers we’re waiting in the Audi of a couple that was dining in Lagoa.  Once the couple arrived at their car, the traffickers made them drive to the couples’ home.  The driver tried to delay by driving around Ipanema, pretending his house was somewhere else, buying time.  The traffickers picked up on his intent, and made him drive to the ocean cliffs closer to Rocinha.  The traffickers left the couple there, hanging onto the concrete wall that fell down to the ocean below, screaming for help.  They were saved shortly after by the police.  The traffickers fled back to Rocinha and hid.  The military police went to Rocinha and there was an exchange of gunfire, then the police called the head trafficker and told him that if they did not give up the suspects, they would be coming in.  The head trafficker had the four beaten, put them in a van, and had them driven down the hill for the police.  The police then made a public spectacle of the criminals. 

 

You can’t just come riding in on the great white horse of moral principle; you have to solve the problem. – Sergio Vieira de Mello

 

I am coming to the conclusion that at some point, I will have to achieve the passive agreement of the head boca.  I have a short list of friends to make, all of which can make my path smoother and safer.  In a community that receives millions of Reais per month from trafficking operations, you cannot stretch your legs without getting passive agreement from head of Rocinha law.  More to come on this later.

 

Carnaval has come and gone.  The largest party on the planet was here, and the biggest parade the world knows occurred for five nights straight at the Sambódromo.  The Sambódromo is a gigantic concrete open-ended stadium that houses the fans watching each school’s parade.  I paraded with Rocinha’s Samba School as a clown.  Each school’s parade is about ninety minutes long.  The costumes, floats, and choreography is the greatest single spectacle on earth.  Volunteers work all year preparing for the event which is funded by legal companies and mafia-style organizations.  We waited in the preparation area for five hours and began our processional at four in the morning.  The parade is a competition so it was important for us to maintain a perfect line as we marched through while dancing.  I did not have time to memorize the song so I chewed gum to give the appearance that I was singing along properly. 

 

Reader, I have been very busy with life in Rocinha, and I am finding that one either writes things or does things.  I must be doing things now, and hope to have your patience with my poor and limited writing.  

8 February, 2009



The above pictures were taken after a recent conflict outside of a favela. Immediately after the fire was put out, favela residents were cutting and pulling the metal from the remains.



We’ve got to lean on the door harder, and if we keep leaning in a very, very connected way, then that door is going to open further – Lt Gen Sir Michael Rose, British SAS, UN Bosnian Operations

I’m restless. I like challenges, changes. I look for trouble, it’s true. Because in trouble you find truth and reality – Sergio Vieira de Mello

I walked through the market in downtown Rio, searching the maze of streets and alleyways for equipment. I needed thick rope for climbing, and more iron bars. A few missteps and redirections led me to the naval district. Entering a supply warehouse I met Fernando, a middle-aged man with glasses, the manager of this old depot that sold anchors, rope, and iron. Fernando was intrigued but couldn’t give me any parts. He spoke of a boat cemetery in Caju, and I left for it. I arrived at the bus stop, waiting for bus number 201 to Caju, imagining all the metal scraps I could scrounge once I got inside an old ship. A van drove by, the driver yelling for Caju, I signaled him to stop. The door opened by a lever the driver had specially welded, and I crawled past an old man to sit behind the driver. The van was a relic of the past, its insides gutted, every piece rusted and barely holding on, its passengers more used to driving in ancient hulks than the air-conditioned luxury buses that serviced the wealthy neighborhoods, the van’s destination, the favela Caju. I explained where I needed to go, the driver a little confused but eager to help, the passengers curious about the ventures of this stranger to their neighborhood. The drive took 20 minutes as the highway hugged the bay of Rio, the destination always in sight as it sprawled with massive ships, cranes, and warehouses. I was definitely outside of my comfort zone again, but it felt strangely good to be back.

Caju appeared as a wasteland, one dusty street separating the favela from the immense marine industry. The Caju favela architecture was standard, but its location was not. Normally in Rio the favelas are in the hills, but here it was flat, like a Mexican desert town, abandoned and on its own. The view to the marine industry was blocked by a two-story wall, each company having their own gigantic door, swinging inward, allowing the trucks passage, and I was lucky to catch a glimpse inside. The image was surreal, in an instant I saw the massive skeleton of a once Titanic size ship, covered with workers like ants, tearing off the remaining bones, as another thousand workers scurried, carrying the iron bars to the trucks. There was something naturally evil about this place.

It was 3 o’clock in the afternoon, the air was thick and heavy, the type of air that caused time to slow down, and the sun, the sun and dirt made everything too bright. The driver was twenty-five years old and named Dennis. He lived in Caju, and he knew the dangers. If he left me here alone, it would have been bad. He liked my story so he decided to help me out. After dropping off the remaining passengers we searched for access to any abandoned ships. We reached the edge of town and saw three huge ships, large ships even from this distance, laying in the mudflats, unnaturally canting at slight angles as if preparing to fall at any moment, but having not moved in decades, resting. We drove towards them, leaving the main road for two dirt tire lanes overgrown by grass.

A two-story home came into view as we approached, the ships massive outlines getting larger in our view. The home looked vacated, the fence that ran along the road had a doorway that we entered, leading us into the yard that was dried mud with occasional grassy patches. The sun was hard and there was no wind, you could feel the weight of the silence as heat. Our attention turned to two ducks who waddled their way to a dirty puddle. We called out for someone, the noise feeling too loud, thunderous yet hopeless in this place that wreaked of lethargy. We stood, and we could hear our breathing, then we heard a window slide open from the second story, an old man leaned out. He looked as if we had woken him from a twenty-year sleep. He made his way downstairs and to the back door, then walked slowly down the backyard steps, every move with slow purpose, his face was lined with wrinkles and his beard long and unkempt, the spitting image of Tom Hanks’s character in Cast Away. He acted as if he had not seen a human in years. The conversation was slow, the pauses long, taking time to catch your breath from the unbearable heat. I pointed to the ships in the mud and told him my intentions. He said that I could not go there, a man owned them and was going to sell the metal for money. We thanked him and returned to the van.

I asked Dennis to help me find a bus back to the city. When we arrived the bus stop in Caju, I gave him the equivalent of $3 US dollars. I told him it was for the extra gas he used to help me out, but we both knew that was a lie, I paid him for being on the good side, I paid him for keeping me alive.



I am sometimes almost terrified at the scope of the demands made upon me, at the perfection of self-abandonment required of me, yet outside of such absoluteness can be no salvation – George MacDonald

Camp Barrett in Quantico has been the training ground for countless Marine Officers. The area is immense, steep hills and river valleys, impossibly dense foliage and open, grassy, clearings make it ideal for dealing tough lessons to lieutenants. Each season is harsh, but then it was summer, sweat-soaked camouflage blouses from brutal humidity quickly becoming the enemy at night, the relatively cooler night temperatures making the change dramatic. I was acting platoon commander for tomorrow’s attack. I prepared a recon brief and gathered my team, the senior captains watching, grading our every action. We left at 1600 to scout the enemy’s position, taking three other Marines and leaving the platoon behind to rest, giving them word that we would return no later than 2000.

We walked silently, tracing hills and valleys, slowing and compressing our formation in the thick brush, accelerating and expanding in the open areas. The late afternoon heat was beginning to ease, the sun behind thin cirrus clouds, lowering under the steep hills. The enemy’s likely position was halfway down a thickly forested valley, but on a rise that tried to be a hill, with two water washes on each side. We arrived on the adjacent rise and three hundred meters from the anticipated enemy position. With visibility limited to 20 yards, we were in no position to gain any real intelligence. I took one other lieutenant with me to scout the enemy lines.

We had little time to conduct the final, most important portion of our recon. The travel took longer than expected and we needed to return as soon as possible. If we returned late, the platoon would send out a search party for us, causing much confusion the night before an attack, and we still needed to brief. I found an enemy gun position, confirming the enemy’s basic location but still lacking any substantial intelligence. I wanted to know what was on the other side of this rise. Was the terrain better? Did the enemy position extend over two rises? How many gun positions did they have? I returned to the recon team, and I had a decision to make. Accept a late return to the platoon and conduct a more in depth reconnaissance, or return now, rationalizing that I knew all I really needed to know, and ensuring a smooth operation. I took the recon team back. This was a mistake.

I briefed the squad leaders at sunrise. I led the platoon to the attack position, put them on line, and they attacked through ridiculously thick brush, each Marine barely able to see his nearest buddy, climbing over and crawling under fallen trees, and blindly shooting at the enemy’s gun positions. We took the position, but not without heavy losses.

A thorough debrief concluded with one sharp lesson.

The terrain on the other side of the rise was much less dense, and also less steep. An attack from the other side would have saved lives. The senior captain hammered me for not staying committed to my recon mission, for letting a small problem deter me from achieving the overall goal.

The problem above is more complex than it seems. There are several seemingly small issues at play here, and when presented together at the time of the required decision, they sum to a greater total.

I lacked the understanding that every tough decision will always cost something. The choice, with its intent on keeping everything status quo, resulted from the misguided notion to keep everything operating smoothly, vice going for the kill and accepting consequences.

The decision also goes back to The Hustler by Tevis, and defines the choice of a loser. By rationalizing the reason to return, I had a built-in excuse for failure. I had essentially lost the battle before it began. The underlying causes of such subconscious decisions are beyond the scope of this writing, but the reader will be sure to point out man’s hesitancy to completely expose himself, thus the failure point to closely to his own self. This self-protection is the ultimate vanity, and is the root of infinite problems on every scale.

25 January, 2009



“You may never like any thing I write – and then suddenly you might like something very much.  But you must believe that I am sincere in what I write.”

Ernest to Grace Hall Hemingway, 1927

 

The afternoon sun was high and softly blanketed by thin clouds whispy and swirling.  The thick Rio heat was broken by the breeze, making the palm trees lean, their hard crisp leaves chattering.  The boy seemed as a man, unbelievably small but with aged eyes and even muscles, his skin brown but not yet leathery.  The kite spindle he used was an old plastic water bottle, and he tied the line with an expert knot, his hands moving not as a child but as a spinster, daydreaming of something else. The kite was small, square, and homemade with thin paper and balsa wood.  He let out enough line and threw the kite in the air, turning his neck back to watch it as he ran into the wind.  He stopped and worked the kite, his hands skillfully jerking and freeing the line, the ocean wind lifting and pushing it higher.

 

True writing is actually more real than life.  Separating yourself from the event, recreating it with words, you are actually closer to real than when you were sitting on the concrete wall, watching the boy with the kite.  This is why I am more tired after writing, than being. 

 

 

I squinted in the bright light of the morning sun.  My students were lined up in a perfect line, facing the ocean, the warm-up and stretch series becoming routine.  The beach was hugged by sharply rising mountains, steep rocky peaks emerging out of dense green forests.  The site of Rocinha was in my view, its immense form cradled in the saddle of two mountain peaks, carved into the hillside as if the hand of God had scraped it himself, three hundred thousand people, squatting.  

 

We were already sweating.  Luciano was focused, concentrating on the stretch counts, repeating them louder than the others.  We were shaking off the comfort of sleep, mentally preparing for another grueling session.  I collected everyone’s flip-flops and put them in my backpack, and we begin our run.  Moving through the thick sand, we ran for forty-five minutes, stopping every ninety seconds for strengthening exercises.  The shrill of the whistle brought attention to our group, so did the strange exercises.  The curious attention received actually strengthens the group’s morale.  We love to talk about it. 

 

Luciano lives next door to the institute.  He is around forty years-old and is a professional photographer, which leaves him time during his day to help me, or just sit around and talk, a favorite Brazilian pastime.  The reader will remember that Luciano is “the Italian,” the beloved character that enjoys busting everyone’s balls, especially the institute directors and the volunteers.  Luciano is single, has no children, and is deeply religious, his lifestyle as a teetotaler stands in stark contrast to his immediate surroundings.

 

I arrive Rocinha at 7:45 for our morning workouts.  We start to assemble at 8:00 so I always take a few moments to sit on the steps and read Veja, the Brazilian equivalent of Time Magazine.  This is a peaceful time and I do enjoy watching the Rocinha residents start their day.  The institute is located in a very narrow alleyway between impromptu buildings three stories high, causing a claustrophobic feel that leaves the alleyway always dark and usually wet.  The thin view of the sky is broken by an infinite array of adhoc, spliced powerlines.  Louie is the cat that lives across the alley in the home where I spent Christmas.  He wakes up when I arrive and sits with me until everyone shows up.  He is white with large spots of mottled grey and black.  At precisely 8:00 am Luciano shows up with the key to the institute.  We spend a brief few minutes discussing what we did the prior evening, and then we get going.

 

We are almost back to the starting point of our beach run, the past forty minutes have been a blur of heat, pain, sweat, and sand.  The sands’ continuous attempt to cover our skin is failing due to the sheer volume of sweat we are producing.  Luciano’s form during the exercises is good but not perfect, this does not stop him from motivating the others.  He is in serious pain, and cannot hide this fact from his face.  This is why he keeps coming back, and this is why he is a believer, something deep inside of him needs this, and I don’t know yet what it is.  I do know that he feels as if he was born into the wrong life, that he was meant for something different.

 

I blow the final whistle for the end of the workout, we exercise discipline and do our stretch routine first, in silence, giving them time to calm their intense desire to jump into the perfectly crisp ocean water, forcing them to reflect on their recent experience.  The stretch routine, at first clumsy and awkward, is now perfected, a unified group seamlessly gliding through the series in perfect silence. 

 

Luciano leads the group into the water, not tiptoeing, but sprinting, diving headfirst.  I watch them with joy, and with pride.  I’m dying to get in the water but I follow my impulse and begin to organize our things, delaying gratification… Something new inside told me that this was stupid, so I stifled my complex and ran in the ocean…  The water was cold, but just right, our heads bobbing up down with the large waves that broke closer to the shore.  Luciano told me this was his first time in the water in years.  I looked back to the mountains, and to Rocinha, and I felt good. 

 

My last Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu session was two weeks ago.  I had my first opportunity to fight another white belt, and this was satisfying.  Each fight is 8 minutes long, so I prepare for each fight with a quick reflection, telling myself to be smart, stay calm, and only use strength for when I really need it.  With the white belt, we trade positions for four minutes, and I could tell he was getting tired.  I had been saving my energy, not going for any kill positions, but playing it for the long run.  I was in the rear guard, to the unfamiliar this might seem to be a defensive position, as you are on your back, but it is actually quite offensive.  My opponent was standing up and I had my legs wrapped around is his waist.  He was leaning over, which was a mistake as he was bleeding energy rapidly.  The key to setting up for an arm-bar is not to give it away, as every participant is familiar with these moves, success is only achieved during a brief moment where your opponent lacks attention.  I had one of his arms locked to my chest, and with my opposite leg I released my wrap and shot my leg straight up and past his head, rolling and twisting in the opposite direction.  This maneuver caused us to tumble once over on the ground and I ended up on top, with my opponent’s arm between my legs, sitting on his shoulder.  All that was left was to simply roll back until his elbow, with any more pressure, would have broken, causing intense pain and him to tap-out.  I crawled back to the center, ready to start again, but he was done.  Later that day I noticed pain in my lower ribs.  A few days later, while bench-pressing at the gym, I actually felt and heard the crack of the lower rib finally giving way. 

 

I now have space for my physical training equipment in Rocinha.  It’s only a closet, but it is inside a community meeting room, large enough for me to run a class of 10-15 students.  I can now complete my bench press and squat rack, and then begin construction on other items.  It will be important to seize this small but powerful leverage point.

 

The sculptor knows that a chip doesn’t have to fall every time the chisel is struck, because he understands that every time he strikes the chisel, he weakens the stone.  If he’s patient long enough, the piece he wants to chip will depart from the main rock – James Maxwell

 

My vision for the physical training class:  Hosting 10-15 students inside the community center, running them through high-intensity 30 minute workouts that use equipment I construct from primitive materials that can be found anywhere, especially junk yards.  Some days I make progress towards this goal, some days I don’t.  I am finding that holding onto to this vision takes immense patience, perseverance, and faith.  Simple things become immensely difficult.  I continually push to get momentum and then push to keep it going, while all the intricate elements of favela life and Brazilian sense of time seem to push back.  

 

We carried the heavy iron bar back to the institute, sweating profusely and dejected after a failed attempt to transfer it to the community center, and I thought about visions and processes.  As a western thinker, I have been trained to get what I want now, and that the process is just a means to a greater end.  This is not true, every action and every emotion involved in creating something is the true value: the sense of misery when I carried the medicine balls back from the beach, the dangerous motorcycle ride to the back side of the mountain only to find that the guy we needed only works on Thursdays, and the countless fruitless travels around Rocinha, searching, measuring, and negotiating.  Still today I have little to show for my efforts, but I won’t stop.  Still carrying the iron bar, we made our final turn back to the institute, relieved that this ill-fated trip was almost over, and I smiled, resolving to accept the meaningful struggle as value. 

10 January, 2009


Salgueiro Samba School is a mass of concrete, rising up from the street neighborhood, constructed to be useful with the purposeful pride of Socialism.  Tonight’s Carnaval rehearsal is a party, the massive hall full, a claustrophobic’s nightmare with a thousand intimate sweaty bodies.   The hall was painted with Salgueiro’s colors red and white, checkered in mesmerizing fashion.  The band’s balcony hung precipitously on one side of the hall and we stood for four hours, listening. 

 

A white belt’s rise is scarred with painful mistakes. My last training session I found myself in a series of four crushing arm-bars by superior fighters.  I am constantly impressed with new ways the body experiences pain.  My technique is improving, and this past week I have made it more difficult for my opposition.  I have yet to accept rest over the chance to fight again, forcing me to improve technique. 

 

I walked out of my apartment building on New Year’s Eve and was struck by the flood of a thousand people walking in the same direction.  It was one hour until midnight and the streets were flooded with people wearing white.  I joined them in parade and met Luciano and the others at the Copacabana beach.  The fireworks started exactly at midnight, and two million people cheered, cried, and hoped for the future. 

 

 

An odyssey of physical and mental anguish broken by moments of clarity of purpose and blissful understanding

(my description of Boulder Outdoor Survival School)

 

We gathered in a circle in Utah’s high mountain desert.  Across the grassy valley stood a black sheep, looking at us, seemingly knowing what was to come.  The lead instructor had us draw straws to determine who would kill the animal.  My straw was the shortest.  Laurel, our lead instructor, asked if my knife was sharp.  I said yes.  We walked across the valley and gathered around the sheep.  Next to the sheep a hole was dug and a coffee can was placed inside.  We laid the sheep down so its neck was above the can.  With my left hand I found the carotid artery.  I unsheathed my knife and placed the tip at the artery.  I quickly placed my left hand on the butt of the knife and forcefully plunged the knife straight down, then towards me to complete the severing of the artery.  The group held the sheep down.  I sat on my knees and watched as the blood drained into the bucket, and the sheep’s life faded.  The next two days we processed the animal in the tradition of the Native Americans.  The act of killing the sheep was shockingly emotional for me, and I sought to understand why it was not during the war, with real human lives. 

 

 

Be wary of security as a goal.  It may often look like life’s best prize,  usually it is not.

William Zinnser

 

The discipline is not to jump to fast.  If you jump to a form to quickly it won’t have the understood meaning you want for it

(Maya Lin – Chinese American designer of Vietnam Veterans Memorial)

 

It has been seven weeks in Rio.  The existential anxiety I previously mentioned has calmed.  However, I do still experience the desire to be busy for busy’s sake.  I continually attempt to mentally crush the outdated yet still practiced deferred life plan.

 

Back at Salgueiro the drums and beer have my mind in a daze, and I think about Rio.  The daily flow of life is like any other city, we slowly catch our vans and buses to somewhere else, I arrive Rocinha in the morning and wonder why the streets are always wet.  We talk of places far away, war in Iraq and the Gaza Strip, we shake our heads and ask why.  Intensely complicated politics, intricate diplomacy, and long term strategy are not discussed, only the number killed, and only vague, incomplete attempts to understand are made.  But here a thin cloud of fear shrouds the dream of Rio, the stark contrast of rich and poor overlaps, socioeconomic conditions giving birth to violence, the constant reminder that we too are at war.  But we gather at street parties, beaches, and churches to celebrate life, perhaps more intensely here, the margin between life and death is thinner.  

2 January, 2009

The white van dropped me off on the other side of Rocinha.  I would have to find the correct route into the institute.  It was seven am on Christmas Eve, it should have been calm.  There was a young woman on the back of a mototaxi, telling the driver to go while her right arm was held firmly by a young trafficker, balancing a glass of beer in his right hand and an AR-15 rifle slung on his right shoulder, his mouth rapidly cursing the young woman.  I turned left past the market and through an alleyway.  A bar inside the alleyway was overflowing with people, speaking much too loudly over the music and clearly not aware it was seven in the morning.  Not daring to look inside as I walked by, a drunken woman reached out from inside the bar and grabbed my right arm, she yelled “Gringo,” proudly announcing her catch.  I shrugged her grip and kept walking, never once actually looking inside the bar. 

 

Luciano had called the day before, asking for a physical training class first thing on Christmas Eve.  The class is beginning to gain some traction with my four dedicated students.  At eight o’clock we ran down to the beach, I with two medicine balls in my backpack, and carrying a kettlebell in one hand, and Luciano with the other kettlebell.  The Rocinha residents do not know what to make of us.  We arrive at the beach and begin our usual procedures.  After stretching I have them rotate through stations of pull-ups, kettlebell swings, overhead carries, and stairs.  As one of the students requires frequent breaks, I become aware of the very real possibility of a heart attack, and mentally plan my course of action if it occurs.  These students have never worked out like this in their life. 

 

I return to Rocinha for Christmas Eve.  I was very pleased to spend Christmas with my students who have become friends.  Fireworks are used to celebrate many occasions in Brazil, Christmas Eve not excluded.  This night the residents in Rocinha were partying, and random fireworks were continuous.  The trafficking stand was in full swing, which added to my apprehension, as it was difficult to tell the difference between gunshots and fireworks.  As I walked by the stand, a shirtless man threw a flaming object across the thoroughfare, landing on the concrete across the aqueduct, the traffickers watching, waiting for it to explode.  A young woman, seasoned, put her fingers in her ears for protection.  I imitated her and I was inside my head yelling “Don’t React, Don’t Jump,” again, and again, til I was clear.  A nervous reaction in this situation would bring unfortunate attention. 

 

Christmas Eve in Rocinha was very nice.  The home I was invited to was beautiful, tightly structured and three stories high, neatly abutted by neighbors sharing walls and a front alleyway three feet wide.  It was a true delight, we watched Polar Express in Portuguese and at midnight we hugged, kissed, and then ate a big meal.  The food was amazing, and I devoured two platefuls.  One day I’ll be a good enough writer to describe the food.  I snuck into the kitchen and began doing some dishes, a therapy I never miss.  I think grandma was actually mad when she caught me because she snapped at me with her towel.  I cowered back to the living room and she brought me a soda. 

 

As the other fighters entered the padded room, I knew I had made a mistake.  They were big, wearing kimonos thin from decades of use, and their belts were brown and black.  I sat in the corner, my kimono was white, too bright, too clean, and hard with its newness.  Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu focuses on ground fighting, achieving a win through pain compliance techniques like chokeholds and joint locks.  It is derived from Japanese Judo and made famous by the Gracies and the now popular ultimate fighting championships.  It was my second class and I solemnly arrived, entering as if to my own funeral. The previous class had been ego crushing.  After each fight I limped on all fours back to the wall, my heart beating out of my chest and on the brink of throwing up. Already I’ve found myself into two chokeholds where my opponent could have killed me.  At these precise moments the brain introduces you to a perfect sample of your own death, an indescribable feeling where the body is still fighting, but the slow drain of blood from the brain is putting the body and its panic, to sleep. I resolved to return, to relax while fighting, and survive. 

 

Ricardo de la Riva is our Professor, a legend famous worldwide.  If you happened upon him on the street he would strike you as an academic, standing five foot eight inches with wire-rimmed glasses, graying hair, and a quick smile.  One mention of his name anywhere in the martial arts world brings animated discussion. We go back to the wall after each fight, to recover.  A body I thought was in good physical condition is nowhere near the desired state for fighting.  The Professor scans the room, asking each fighter if they are ready for another. Most fighters take at least one rest between sessions, I will not.  I need to learn to fight in the most fatigued condition, forcing me to relax my breath, and calm my mind while the body is in full tilt fight mode.

 

The book “The Hustler,” by Walter Tevis, accurately and acutely portrays mans fear of his own success.  I had him, he was only a purple belt but he should have been beating me.  I was clearly stronger than him but I was new, and had very limited knowledge of technique.  Several times during the fight my killer instinct recessed by only the tiniest of fractions, but just enough to let him escape.  It actually happened, I was afraid of beating him on my second class, and the smallest of forgivings are quickly punished on the mat.  A brand new white belt beating a seasoned purple belt would have raised the academy’s expectations of me, and I subconsciously resisted, preferring life at the bottom, with less pressure.  This was unacceptable.  As in Tevis’ novel, I was Fast Eddie Felsen, a young pool hustler who had Minnesota Fats in his sights during a 36 hour pool match, but drank too much as his excuse not to confront his true character, the difference between winners and losers.